Why Start With an S-Hook?

The S-hook is the classic first project for new blacksmiths — and for good reason. It's small enough to complete in a single session, teaches three essential skills (tapering, scrolling, and bending), and produces something genuinely useful. A well-made set of S-hooks for hanging pots, tools, or garden items is a satisfying early achievement and a great way to build confidence at the forge.

What You'll Need

  • One piece of 3/8" square mild steel bar, approximately 6–7 inches long
  • Coal or propane forge
  • Anvil
  • Cross-peen and rounding hammer (2–3 lbs)
  • Flat-jaw tongs that fit 3/8" stock
  • Scroll fork or bick (horn of the anvil works fine)
  • Wire brush for scale removal
  • Eye protection and leather gloves

Step 1: Taper Both Ends

Start by heating one end of your bar to a bright orange. Place it flat on the anvil face and use your cross-peen or the edge of the anvil face to begin drawing out a taper about 1.5 to 2 inches long. Work on all four sides, rotating the bar 90° with each series of blows to keep the taper even and square.

Finish by rounding the taper slightly with glancing blows across the corners — you're aiming for a gentle, slightly rounded point, not a sharp spike. Repeat this process on the other end of the bar.

Tip: Keep your tapers symmetrical in length. This makes bending the final S-curve much easier and more balanced.

Step 2: Form the First Scroll

Reheat one tapered end to orange heat. Place the tip over the horn (bick) of your anvil near the smaller end, where the horn's diameter matches roughly the curve you want. Using light hammer blows, begin curling the tip back toward the bar. Work your way gradually — don't try to complete the curl in one heat.

The goal here is a tight, smooth scroll — like the beginning of a snail shell. Keep the taper centered as you curl. If the scroll begins to twist off to one side, correct it with gentle taps on the flat face of the anvil.

Step 3: Form the Second Scroll (Opposite Direction)

Reheat the other tapered end and form a second scroll, but this time curl it in the opposite direction to the first. This is what creates the "S" shape. Keep the scale brushed off between heats so you can see your work clearly.

Step 4: Open and Balance the Curves

Now reheat the center section of the bar. Place the middle of the bar over the horn and gently bend it so the two scrolls open up in opposing directions, creating a graceful S-curve. Step back and look at the hook — the two ends should be roughly parallel and the overall shape should be balanced and even.

Make small corrections as needed: if one side is too tight, open it gently over the horn. If it's twisted, lay it flat on the anvil face and tap it true.

Step 5: Finishing

Once you're happy with the shape, let the hook air cool to black heat, then quench it in water to clean the surface (this is a mild steel hook — quenching won't harden it significantly, it just cleans it up). Use a wire brush to remove any remaining scale.

For a finished look, you can apply a thin coat of beeswax or linseed oil while the hook is still warm — this gives a pleasant dark finish and protects against rust.

What You've Learned

By completing this project you've practiced:

  • Tapering — moving metal to reduce cross-section evenly
  • Scrolling — bending a taper into a tight decorative curve
  • Bending over the horn — using the bick to create open curves
  • Heat management — knowing when to return to the fire
  • Visual symmetry — developing your eye for balanced form

Make a dozen S-hooks. Each one will be better than the last, and by the end you'll have both a useful set of hardware and a solid foundation in forge technique.